Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Hoi An, Viet Nam | The Town of Nostalgia - Day 2

We woke up early at 8AM sharp trying to witness the old town under the sunlight without the crowd. Today experience was totally different from the day before because Hoi An in early morning is so peaceful and shy. And I liked it that way. 
Old House of Tan Ky

Old House of Tan Ky

The first stop was Old House of Tân Kỳ, it is one of the oldest house in Hoi An. It was located right next to the main river, with a beautiful old yellow wall, so mandatory photos were taken. We wanted to check out what's inside of an old house, sadly you must pay to visit and we were on budget so we had a peep into the house and went on our way. It used to open for tourists, at least when I was visiting Hoi An, seeing people coming in and out just the night before. But I can't google any information of it anymore, apparently it was confirmed to be closed. So weird! 

If you are interested in ancient houses, Old House of Tấn Ký is another popular address. This house is more than 200 hundred years old. The materials used to build the house were expensive and extremely durable back in the old days, explaining why it still looks amazing and new. The owning family is still living upstair, so you can only get to check out the downstairs. I have read the reviews, I agreed with some saying it was not really special to pay a visit, but it would be interesting if you'd like to discover the history behind this old house. 

 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc StreetHoi An

Japanese Covered Bridge

Japanese Covered Bridge

Japanese Covered Bridge

Japanese Covered Bridge
Notice the monkey on the left? Haha
We then walk slowly to the famous Japanese Covered Bridge, it is a combination of a temple and a bridge. Ok! I'm using my research and analytical writing skill which I gained at uni (my degree finally paid off haha) to give you a contented history of this monument.

Japanese Covered Bridge was built in the 17th century, by the Japanese obviously. According to legend, the earthquakes were caused by a monster called Mamazu, with its head lying in Japan, its body in Vietnam and its tail in Indian Ocean. Every time it moved, there would be earthquakes, causing disasters affecting the Japanese, the Chinese and the Vietnamese. The bridge acted as an figurative sword, impaling into the monster's spine so it couldn't move its tail and causing earthquakes anymore. In 1653, the people built a temple attaching into the bridge, worshiping a protective God named Bắc Đế Trấn Võ, who would bring peace and happiness to Hoi An. (VTV 2014)

After taking tons of photo, we decided to cross the bridge and check out the temple as well. Just right when I stepped my foot in, the lady sitting in a table right before the bridge was aggressively stopping me and said, "Ticket!" not knowing I'm a Vietnamese. I was like "You need ticket to cross the bridge???" in Viet. She rudely said yes to me, so angry I stared at her and left. There were also Chinese tourists trying to enter but apparently she did the same thing to them. No wonder Vietnam's Tourism never gets better. I mean you need to pay to cross a freaking bridge, I almost had a heart attack. The night before, people were crossing it like crazy, nobody cared and the next morning you have to pay *rolling eyes*.

People and rules like this have worsened the Vietnam's images to the world. I don't why the local government gave these people job,  came up with ridiculous tickets and don't seem to give any shit to make Hoi An friendlier to the tourists, even the Vietnamese ones. I'm really sorry if you had the same experience as mine.

Bitter and disappointed, we slowly walked around, thinking where we should visit!

Hoi An Ancient Town
Beautiful quiet town in the morning

Hoi An Ancient Town

Banh Mi Madam Khanh

Banh Mi Madam Khanh

At about 8.30AM, we were so hungry and remembered we hadn't tried the legendary bánh mì Madam Khánh, quickly we searched for the address and walked as fast as we could. My friend told me that Mrs. Khanh only sells about 200 breads, first come first serve. So you gotta be quick to have the very yummy bánh mì you would ever have in Vietnam. She is the nicest lady I have ever met, along with her daughter, I assumed. We had 2 special bánh mì and 2 glasses of soya milk, I remembered the bill was 50.000VND, the cheapest meal we had in Hoi An. 

- Madam Khánh -

115 Tran Cao Van StreetHoi An

Hoi An-5530
The next destination in our plan was to visit Reaching Out Teahouse which I wrote a separate post because I love the place so much. Read and you'll know why (✿◠‿◠). After two hour of wonderful morning tea session, we were just strolling away on the streets, glancing on everything.

Hoi An Ancient Town
Attempt taking chio photo haha
Spotted Beckham and Harper in Hoi An
Spotted Beckham and Harper in Hoi An 

Hoi An Ancient Town

Hoi An Ancient Town
Interesting looking house

Hoi An Ancient Town

Hoi An Ancient Town

We entered some shops trying to buy souvenirs for the family back home, like I must get one or my father would be displeased. Ok! I wanted to give them some gifts from Hoi An as well, since none of my family member has been to this town hehe.

After a few rounds, I found one interesting house, we went in because of that red and black and somewhat scary mask hanging on the wall. There was a coffee store in the middle part of the house. They sell handmade, fascinating stuff in the house's inner part, from Hoi An chandeliers to potteries, some costs really expensive and some was reasonably priced. I picked up a flower vase for my mom for 135.000đ, which for me was sensible.  I don't know why I did not take a photo of the front, but I think you would find it eventually. It located near Hoi An Market.

Hoi An Ancient Town

Later, on the way, we encountered this cutie, he was trying to pee but I kept following him. Just look at his puffy butt, I just wanted to grab them and cuddle (ok! This sounded better in my head). Poor thing kept looking back at me, probably thinking why does this lady want to see me go pee pee. He was kinda holding it in, and always checked if anyone was looking hahaha.


Hoi An Ancient Town

Hoi An Ancient Town

The last location we came across on the way back to our motel was Hội quán Hải Nam. It was one of the location with the sign "Free Visit" hanging in front of the gate, and I thought we should came in. 
According to history, this temple is an extremely spiritual place of the Chinese Vietnamese from Hai Nam Province, China, living in Hoi An. This place was built to pay respect to 108 traders from Hai Nam, who were victimised by the greedy officials who wanted to steal all the expensive goods the traders had in their boats back in the 19th century. Later, the King, after having dreams about the poor traders as in they tried to tell him the truth, decided to commence an investigation and exculpated them. He also had an order to build this temple in remember of 108 victims who often saved the sailors near Hoi An's coastal areas from disasters, according to legend. 

The architecture of the temple was to me, strongly presents the Chinese culture and authenticity, you can simply see that from two photos above. There was a bronze picture, sculpting a story about the history, which at the time I visited, I had no idea what was it about. I tried to take a picture, but decided to delete it, for me it was something that you should see with your own eyes to feel it. To be honest, I don't like to capture moments in spiritual places, I always feel uneasy about it. 

Don't be too scared haha, the place is definitely worth a visit when you're in Hoi An.

Hội Quán Hải Nam -

10 Tran Phu, Hoi An.

And that was our last place we stopped by in Hoi An. For two days, I felt like it was not enough for me to capture the spirit of Hoi An. Living in Saigon for too long got me feeling I was out in a new planet with scenery I don't get to live and see everyday. There will be a time I shall live in Hoi An to get in touch with the nostalgia escaping the modern, fast living lifestyle I'm having. 

Until the next destination gets added to my cities I'd like to live in list haha.
Love, WO.

Read Hoi An Day 1 here!

Thursday, March 17, 2016

Hoi An, Viet Nam | The Town of Nostalgia - Day 1


Hello everyone! How was your Lunar New Year holiday going? Lacking of posts recently so I shall wish you the best of luck, health and happiness this Year of Monkey at the beginning of this post haha.

To start a great year, I made a trip to the Middle part of Vietnam. And Hoi An, a place that blew my mind away. As a habit, you will know if I like certain city or not depending on whether I'd want to live there or not. So far in the list, Hoi An has taken the second place (the first belongs to Vienna).


Hoi An is a special town, at least it is to me. It brought a combination of peaceful, loving and wonderful sensations when I walked down its little streets. For the first half hour, I couldn't believe my eyes, everything was so breathtaking to me. Before stepping my feet to this town, Hoi An was very, what's the right word, 'opaque' in my mind. I knew it exists but the thought of travelling to this city was never a goal I think I should accomplish, such a pity right? But then again, because I completely underestimated it so much, it blew my freaking mind haha.


Transportation 

We arrived at Hoi An in the afternoon, after 40 minutes riding the scooter from Da Nang City following the coastal street that was called 4 names depending on which part was belonged to which communes (☉_☉). It was a pretty long trip since we always wondered when the hell we were gonna reach Hoi An and surprisingly the distance was only 30-ish km.
Initially, we were gonna take the bus there, but riding the scooter was more convenient and at no cost (except for gas) cos our friend lent it to us (thank you thank you). You can rent one of your own but for me it was too expensive for a day really, 150.000VND/day without gas (about US$6.5). 

There were other options, by bus or taxi
  • If you'd like to take the bus, which is low cost, comfortable, economical and safe, then you can go to Danang Central Bus Station, located at 159 Tôn Đức Thắng Street, Da Nang. The price ticket is about 20.000VND (less than US$1), and takes about 1 hour to Hoi An. But you gotta take in account the cost travelling from your hotel to the bus station.
  • If you'd want a faster, convenient (reaching the front door of your hotel/homestay), taxi is also an option. I'd recommend this if you travel with another 3 people, you can share the cost and of course the benefits it comes with. But only taking Tien Sa Taxi, the yellow cab or Mai Linh Taxi, the green cab for your best interests, other taxis could be good but you don't know if they had done funny things with the money metrics and made the price ridiculous. The cost is 300.000~400.000VND.   
*I have researched more about the option where you can rent a car to Hoi An from Da Nang with a fixed price but it varies a lot, from 220.000VND to 300.000VND but I don't know if anyone who speaks English can communicate with the drivers. I'll update the info soon so stay tuned!


Accomodation

We stayed at Hoa Phong Lan Homestay (Orchid Homestay). This place is superb, perfect for the price. You should contact them directly to get a cheaper price, we booked a room for 2 for 550.000VND a night, Booking.com's price was 716.000VND (which was US$32). They speak English so don't hesitate! The location was really close to the central Hoi An, like 5 minutes walk through a very busy market. It'd be an interesting experience passing the market trust me haha


My lovely Hoi An

One of the reason I like Hoi An because I was lucky to be walking on its streets with no cost at all. During the time we were there, the tourists were able to enter the central area without paying 80.000VND/Vietnamese and 120.000VND/foreigners (the ticket should be kept for the next entry during your stay, like multiple entries).  

Xe Đạp

The best way, ok not the best, but an alternative way to go around Hoi An is by bicycle. Luckily, our accommodation provided one free bike for each room, we also took one for free cos the guests were not using them (really nice hospitality eh?). But if you have to rent, the receptionist told me the rent would cost 20.000VND/day (like less than US$1). But I have to confess that sometimes the bikes are the burdens, the darker it gets, the more crowded the streets are. You just can't stay on the bike's seat for 2 seconds because there will be people standing in your way. I wanted to dump it somewhere and walk around. Gosh!

But, fortunately, you can leave the bike anywhere you fancy, lock the bike and you're free to go. But as an authentic Saigonese, I was worried sick thinking the bikes would get stolen and therefore kept whining to my friend we should take the bikes back to the homestay (I'm so annoying). But nothing happened so I confirm you can leave it anywhere, just remember to lock it!


ColorsofHA
Colors of Hoi An

We walked for a while and decided to rest a bit, I wanted to go to a special place, Reaching Out Teashouse but the place was all packed so we chose Hoi An Roastery instead.
HoiAnRostery1
- 135 Tran Phu, Hoi An Old Quarter -

I ordered egg coffee. That's right, they put egg yolk in the coffee, a special Vietnamese coffee that I've never tried so I did. It was really sweet but somewhat quite ok to drink.


My friend was like "urghh too sweet" haha, more coffee for me then. The place overall was very nice and cozy, but for me it was a little bit too pricey. Probably because I don't really associate Hoi An as a an expensive destination but in reality, I was surprised how much I spent for it alone. 

The street food is told to be one of the highlight  of Hoi An so we decided to try some Vietnamese sweet desert. 10.000VND for each like that small bowl she was holding in her hands. 



Hoi An is famous for its tailor boutique, you can get the style you wish done in the next day for the price of around 350.00VND to more than 800.000VND. But for that much of money, I have my own source back in Saigon so I was looking for another alternative. A small shop that once I read about that sells jumpsuit, dresses, pants for less than 100.000VND. I was told to find it near the Market, with no other information, it seemed really hopeless at one point. But then at when I was about to give up, I found it.

The street where I found the shop
Here it is
- 15/1 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Old Quarter -
To be fair, with that price range, the clothing was ok to wear, not like superb looking as those boutique I told you about. But you can buy more pieces with the same money spent for one tailored dress or jumpsuit. And you can find many styles in here as well, took a picture so you don't have struggles finding it like me (good friend eh? haha kidding). So next time, go find that shop with a fish name to buy more clothes if you happen to run out of it.

At dawn, hungry because of extreme excitement (the thing I found above haha) so we went for food. At first we consulted with TripAdvisor and planned to go to one of those super expensive restaurants in the very central, next to the main river to observe people putting their lanterns float on the river's surface. But the food was priced like a fine dining restaurants, even more expensive than Saigon, the taste could be good but so overpriced.

We settled for the famous and reasonably priced traditional dish of Hoi An, chicken rice. The most popular one is Bà Buội's, but at 6pm, uhm ish? There was no more left to serve. Quite disappointing, we left. Yet there was this smaller cart opposite to Bà Buội's restaurant. 

Cơm gà
Our order 

The whole thing costed 110.000VND, we was short in change so we gave the owner 500.000VND bill. But he was like just give him 100.000VND, the other 10.000 was his lucky money gifting for us since it was Lunar New Year. We was like AWW! Definitely coming back to this cute cute restaurant again! 

Hoi An-5388
- 27 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An - 
The name of the chicken rice restaurant. Sorry bit blurry, my cam doesn't work well in the dark :(

There was more seats walking deeper into the ally. Oh! Did I mention the iced tea was free also? 
After the feast, we walked back to the central, I managed to took some pictures of the Japanese Bridge but didn't turn out well. At least I tried.


We then slowly walked further down along the river side, discovering many many awesome street food. But since my friend was so cautious about the food hygiene, I didn't get to eat any TT___TT. Definitely coming back to try those food myself. After swallowing my throat for a few times, we turned back to walk on the Japanese Bridge. But it was too crowded, I just wanted to pass it asap, apparently there is a small temple in it.

On our way back to the homestay
We managed to visit Hoi An's distinctive chandelier shop. They were extremely visible on the street, you would run into it definitely. The price is from 100.000VND, depending on the size, you can bargain if you want but if the price is ok for you, just buy, they put a lot of hard work making the chandelier. I think it's important to put a hand preserving these cultural products. They were really lovely and would be a nice gift for your loved ones.

We didn't really want to discover more of the ancient city, partly because we were exhausted spending 6 hours walking around, partly because it was so crowded, my friend and I as introverts, like places with less or preferably no people at all haha. So we went home and rest.

Hoi An at night is extremely busy, it can't seem to have an end to the night. There was one thing we regretted not doing, going on one of the boats and make a wish with our own lanterns, let them float along the river. So if you can bargain a good price with the lantern seller, then please do it, I think it'd be a worthy experience.

Nite Nite Hoi An!
Continue with Hoi An Day 2 here!
© Wandering Orchid
Maira Gall